Under‑cabinet lighting is one of the simplest ways to make a kitchen feel high‑end while actually making it easier to cook, prep, and clean. The challenge is deciding which system fits your space: LED strip lights, puck lights, or linear bar fixtures.
Why Under‑Cabinet Lighting Matters
Overhead cans or a center light often leave your counters in shadow because the cabinets block the light. Under‑cabinet fixtures push light forward onto the work surface, so you can actually see what you are chopping, measuring, or cleaning. They also double as soft night or ambient lighting when the main lights are off.
Most modern systems use efficient LED technology, which runs cool, lasts for years, and uses far less energy than older halogen strips or fluorescent bars.
Option 1: LED Strip Lights (With Channels and Lenses)
LED strip, or “tape,” lighting is a flexible circuit board with tiny LEDs that can be cut to length and stuck under your cabinets. When it is installed correctly in an aluminum channel with a lens, it gives you a continuous, modern glow across the whole countertop.
How LED strips are powered
Strips typically run on 12 or 24 volts DC from a dedicated LED driver, not straight 120‑volt power.
Line‑voltage is brought to the driver, which is usually hidden in a cabinet, basement, or mechanical area, and then low‑voltage wiring daisy‑chains from run to run.
A wall switch or compatible dimmer controls the driver, so the entire run turns on smoothly just like a normal light.
Channels and lenses: why they matter
An aluminum channel acts as a rigid mounting track and heat sink, which extends LED life and keeps the strip perfectly straight.
Snap‑in lenses (clear, frosted, or asymmetric) soften the light, hide the individual LED dots, and reduce glare on shiny countertops.
Asymmetric lenses can kick the beam toward the front edge of the counter for better task light while keeping the fixture hidden behind the cabinet trim.
Best use cases
LED strip in channel is ideal when you want that clean, uninterrupted bar of light under every cabinet, especially in modern kitchens with long runs or slab doors. It also works very well when the under‑cabinet lighting will double as the main evening lighting for the room, because it provides uniform coverage instead of hot spots.
Option 2: LED Puck Lights
Puck lights are small round fixtures that create a focused pool of light, almost like a mini downlight under each cabinet. They are great for highlighting decor, tile patterns, or specific work zones rather than washing the entire countertop.
How puck lights are powered
Pucks are available as 120‑volt hardwired fixtures or as low‑voltage heads fed from a small driver.
Multiple pucks are usually linked together and tied back to a single junction box or transformer, so they all operate from one switch or dimmer.
Recessed versions often require a hole saw cut into the cabinet bottom, while surface‑mount models screw to the underside of the cabinet.
Beam pattern and spacing
Because each puck has its own optic or diffuser, you get a tighter cone of light that can be aimed toward the backsplash or specific display items.
Typical spacing is around 12–18 inches apart; too far and you will see bright spots with dark gaps between them, especially on light counters.
Best use cases
Puck lights work best when the main goal is accent lighting, such as showcasing a stone backsplash, glass‑door uppers, or a coffee bar. Many designers combine puck lights with strips or bars so the pucks handle the drama while the other fixtures handle general task light.
Option 3: Linear LED Bar Fixtures
Linear bars are rigid, factory‑assembled under‑cabinet fixtures that mount as a single piece instead of a flexible strip. They look like a slim fluorescent but use built‑in LEDs and diffusers for a clean, even beam.
How linear bars are fed
Most residential bars run directly on 120‑volt power and contain their own driver inside the housing.
Power is usually brought into the first bar’s wiring compartment with NM cable, and short jumper cords or internal connectors link additional bars across other cabinets.
Many products offer plug‑in versions that connect to a standard receptacle for retrofit projects where hardwiring is not practical.
Light quality and flexibility
Integrated lenses and reflectors spread light evenly, minimizing visible dots or shadows on the countertop.
Some models pivot or use asymmetric optics to throw light toward the front edge of the counter, which improves visibility and keeps the source tucked under the cabinet.
Bars are available in various lengths that can be mixed and matched to follow the cabinet layout without cutting tape or soldering.
Best use cases
Linear fixtures are a strong choice when you want maximum output and a simple, modular installation, especially on projects where serviceability and standardized parts matter. They are also familiar to inspectors because they install much like traditional under‑cabinet lights but with the efficiency of LEDs.
Key Decisions: Brightness, Color, and Control
No matter which hardware you choose, you will still need to dial in brightness, color temperature, and control.
Brightness (lumens): For serious food prep, many homeowners prefer medium to high output under‑cabinet lighting so the counters can function almost like a primary light source at night.
Color temperature: Warm white flatters wood and traditional finishes, while neutral to cool white suits white or gray contemporary kitchens.
Dimmer compatibility: Dimming lets you run the lights bright while cooking and soft in the evening, which is one of the biggest day‑to‑day benefits of LED systems.
A licensed electrician can also help with placement, layout, and ensuring that all wiring and drivers are installed to code and are accessible for future service.
When to Call a Licensed Electrician
When to call a licensed electrician
You want all under‑cabinet lights on one wall switch or smart control.
You need new circuits, junction boxes, or inside‑cabinet wiring.
You are upgrading from fluorescent or low‑voltage halogen and are unsure what can be reused.
These are the situations where professional design and installation save you time, protect your cabinets and finishes, and keep the project compliant with electrical code.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I dim under‑cabinet LED lights with my existing dimmer?
Many LED systems can be dimmed, but the driver and dimmer must be compatible to avoid flicker or dead zones in the dimming range. When in doubt, use a dimmer that the manufacturer specifically lists for that product.
What color temperature works best with white shaker cabinets?
Neutral white, around 3000–3500 K, is a popular match for white shaker and light quartz because it keeps whites looking clean while still feeling warm and inviting.
Do I have to open up walls to add under‑cabinet lighting, or can it be retrofitted?
In many kitchens, wiring can be routed inside cabinets or through basements and crawlspaces, which limits the amount of drywall repair required. A site visit is usually needed to confirm the best path.
Are LED strips, pucks, and bars safe under wooden cabinets?
Quality LED products run much cooler than older halogen or xenon fixtures and are designed for cabinet use when installed according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
Need a Professional Layout for Your Kitchen?
Located in Duluth and serving the greater Atlanta metro, GE Martin Electrical designs and installs code‑compliant under‑cabinet lighting systems for remodels and new builds. If you would like a professional layout, wiring plan, and installation quote for your kitchen, contact us at (470)‑979‑2061 or info@gemartinelectrical.com.